Ever since I was a small, small child, I have wanted to go inside Buckingham Palace. So when this trip came up, and I realized that I would actually be in London during the only two months out of the year that the palace is open, this immediately leapt to the top of my must do list.

For most people, getting into Buckingham Palace works like this: you buy your tickets online or there, stand in line, and then go through the tour.

And then there's wheelchair users.

The process for wheelchair users involves several international phone calls, a fragile and tempremental computer system, calls to Chase Bank (ok, this part was just me) and a Special Reservation.

Then you have to get there, a process complicated by the fact that buses don't stop by Buckingham Palace.

I made it to Westminster Abbey by very mundane bus - I know, not royal, but cheap - and then took a cab - it's not that far, but I figured that if Catherine Duchess of Cambridge rode from Westminster Abbey to Buckingham Palace I could too. (Also it is slightly uphill). The cab actually can't drop you off that close, so this meant more bump bump and working through crowds.

The wheelchair entrance is nowhere near the main tourist entrance, so, bump bump bump.

And then:

1. Talk to a cop.

2. Talk to a Palace person.

3. Palace person verifies you.

4. Palace person makes several Important Calls by Radio.

5. A Special Golf Cart is radioed over.

6. You roll into the Golf Cart and get Strapped In.

7. That big elaborate entrance in all the photos? You get driven through that and into the inner corridor.

8. More Elaborate Radios to let everyone know you have arrived.

9. You are then wanded and searched (I assume this happens on the regular tour as well.)

10. If you use a mobility scooter, at this stage you are put on a special Buckingham Palace wheelchair.

11. Everyone else is offered a royal Choice of Ramps: the steep ramp (eek) and the not steep ramp, which can be reached only after gravel.

12. Lift one awaits.

13. Lift one requires FOUR separate people to operate: the person on the ground, the person in the upstairs hallway (actually the statue hall or something like that - I was so in awe at the proceedure that I forgot the name) and two people to operate the lift.

(Most of you, incidentally, would look at the lift and say - but it's just one button! - You would have a point, but that is not Buckingham Palace.)

14. After lift one you roll over to the full Hall of Statues, where you wait to be escorted for the next step.

15. At this point everyone realized that I still didn't have a paper ticket.

16. The Hall of Statues is technically the end of the tour, which doesn't really matter at this point because now you are getting wheeled down to the Secret Accessibility Room. This requires one person with you, one person to lift the rope to give you access to the door, one person to open the door, and three people inside the room.

17. Even people with tickets must wait at this point.

18. This is a beautifully decorated little side room with priceless furniture and paintings and also a bathroom that Michelle Obama may or may not have used. There was some confusion on this point, but it was supposed to make the American feel welcome so yay!

19. I used it though! That should count.

20. Now it is time for Lift Two. This ALSO takes four separate people, and wheelchair users can only go up one by one. Before you go up you get a little sticker that authorizes you to use the lift. Each sticker has a little number (this is why wheelchair users have to register in advance - space is limited).

21. Radios talk.

22. Once you are Cleared for Lift Two, you go through a Special Door, up the elevator (I have no idea if Michelle Obama ever used this one) then wait to be allowed through the ropes. Then you are pushed through the Painting Gallery (or whatever) to the beginning of the tour.

23. This process, everyone, is a solid 45 minutes.

24. And I haven't gotten to the part where I discuss leaving.

25. Most of the actual tour is amazing. This year Buckingham Palace is also doing the year of the children or something so there was a huge section devoted to pictures of various princes and princesses and their toys which, honestly, was boring. But the rest was just sensory overkill: I would describe it, but painting after painting after silk hanging after painting after silk hanging....There is an amazing, but amazing, picture of Salome holding the head of John the Baptist which I am pretty sure I haven't seen a reproduction of before, and I honestly got a bit lost looking at it; she had a "and what are YOU going to do about this?" combined with a bit ofa "holy )(*^**" look: I'm describing it terribly, but what I can say is that I felt a fierce sense of greed and it's possibly just as well that Buckingham Palace has those elaborate security proceedures. I also got a bit lost looking at the Lawrence painting of Queen Caroline and Princess Charlotte.

Then I had to leave.

If getting in was a procedure, getting out was even more of one. You have to wait, you see, for Lift Two to be ready. Which takes radio time. That got me back down, and I went out and looked over at the gardens but decided not to try them - rain was coming and I was a bit dizzy. Then I went to Lift One.

The Lift One people weren't answering their radios.

I expect that sort of thing doesn't happen to the Queen.

I indulged in another taxi afterwards. To continue the royal mood, after all.

And now, to Worldcon. I suspect blogging will be light for the next few days.
So Sunday was not a great day: by noon, I felt that if I heard the phrases "this lift is not in service" or "diversion" once more I was going to cry. This was entirely apart from the growing problem of trying to get to a disabled bathroom (see lift thing). I gave up, had a hellish time getting back to the hotel ("diversion"!), napped, tried again, got dizzy, and really gave up. The entertaining part was stealing WiFi from all of the wheelchair inaccessible Starbucks. A photo essay is coming once I am back home.

I was about to try to flee London altogether for about anywhere else on Monday (France sounds lovely) but as I wrote here, I was determined not to let the London buses totally defeat me. Plus, I had exactly three things that I'd really wanted to do: the Tower of London, Buckingham Palace and Platform 9 3/4. AND I had plans to meet up with fellow writer Fabio Fernandes at some point, and the meet up plans did not say "France."

So, after resting for a long while, off I went to the Tower of London.

I can't take the Tube, so, buses. This has its good points - you see a lot along the way - and its bad points: bus transfers, and the way the bus sounds an emergency alarm when you try to get on or off it. Having said that, Orange County bus systems could learn one thing from London buses: wheelchair users aren't strapped in, which saves everybody time.

Anyway: Tower of London!

It had been twenty years since I'd been there, almost long enough to feel as if I were visiting it for the first time. Which, as I soon realized as I went BUMP BUMP BUMP BUMP and then BUMP BUMP over it, was actually fairly accurate - seeing the Tower by wheelchair is a very different experience.

Since wheelchair users can't access about 60 percent of the Tower, I got a discount. Then BUMP BUMP.

The Tower is currently - celebrating? Remembering? I can't think of the right word - World War I - with a display of metal poppies filling the moat area and various World War I costumed figures wandering around. This was moving, and fascinating, and also, BUMP BUMP.

And bump.

Thanks to that I spent a lot more time listening to World War I stuff than I probably ordinarily would have - it provided nice resting points.

I was tempted to stay below, but a chorus of protests insisted that I get pushed up to the upper levels, so BUMP BUMP past the lines for the crown jewels and BUMP BUMP (you might sense a theme here) As I noted on Twitter afterwards, you don't really realize how big that Tower is until you bump your way through it.

Alas, the Chapel was closed for artistic renovations, but, in an attempt to slow down the bumps, I took pictures, pretended to commune with Anne Boleyn's ghost, and completely missed the approaching crowds. A yeoman warder DID, however, and spotting me and another wheelchair user told us that since two wheelchair users were currently in the only other accessible indoor area, we would instead go to the Crown Jewels.

I am sworn to secrecy on this next bit, except to say, SECRET ENTRANCE. THAT felt like a castle.

It also meant that I got to see the Crown Jewels after all. I must say that the most impressive part of this, for me, wasn't the crowns, but the gilt plate created for the later banquets. So that was cool. And afterwards, another yeoman whispered a great secret to me: that if I headed over to St. Katherine's Docks and followed his very specific instructions, there was a lift.

At this point I did not have any great faith in lifts, but I am glad I did this: that was probably my favorite area of London so far, even if I didn't actually find the lift.

Then it was back to the hotel to collapse a bit and regain my humanity before meeting with Fabio. We chatted. We stopped for dinner. We kept chatting. A chainsaw flew up in the air.

"Uh-"

Said chainsaw was from a juggler clad only in purple shorts, standing up on a ladder, juggling that and three other objects. Oddly NONE of that except for the chainsaw caught my attention.

The epic experience that was doing Buckingham Palace by wheelchair - and I do mean epic - deserves a separate entry. But for now, I think it's time for the next major challenge: me and my suitcase making it on and off the Docklands Light Railway. (And making it to the Docklands Light Railway, for that matter.) Wish us luck.

London

Aug. 9th, 2014 02:51 am
So, after missing my initial flight, dealing with a flight delay out of Orlando, temporarily losing my wheelchair in Dublin (that was fun), and going through Secret Back Alleyways Through Paddington Station (that actually was entertaining. Like spy stuff.) This is usually the part where I complain about Heathrow, and, trust me, there are several things I could say about Heathrow, none kind, but in comparison I feel that Heathrow's ongoing "Hi! How can we get you to hate this country as quickly as possible" is mild in comparison. Also Heathrow did push me all the way to Heathrow Express, so that was kind.

Unfortunately, the advertised as disabled friendly hotel where I am staying is not quite as disabled friendly as advertised. To get in and out I have to wait for the porters to bring me a little temporary ramp, not kept in the lobby. This also means that they have to realize I'm there, which so far means waiting outside hopefully for another guest to enter the hotel to alert them that I need the ramp. The main hotel restaurant is not at all disabled accessible, and the bathroom - but this should be a cheery post.

It's perhaps not surprising that I have had four separate people come up to me and ask, in excited voices some equivalent of "you are really doing this? Where? How? Does the bathroom actually work for a wheelchair?" All of them know wheelchair users.

My other favorite comment of the past two days: "All the Americans I've met are so friendly which is strange because you always seem to be shooting each other." Yay, USA!

All right. One last visit to the unlit disabled bathroom, and then I am off to See Stuff.

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